Digital Doubles in Fashion: AI Sparks Debate Over Creativity, Jobs, and Representation

Digital Doubles in the Fashion Industry

Digital doubles—virtual replicas of real-life models—are making their mark in fashion. These AI-generated models are being used for product imagery, a trend gaining traction in e-commerce and retail. Earlier this year, H&M revealed it had created digital twins of actual models for their product photos, stirring mixed reactions. While brands like Anne Klein under WHP Global have used similar technology for over a year, H&M’s announcement brought wider attention to the practice.

Concerns Over Job Replacement

For creatives involved in fashion imagery—models, photographers, stylists, hair and makeup artists—the rise of digital doubles raises concerns about job security. Sara Ziff, founder of Model Alliance, highlights fears about widespread replacement across multiple roles. Makeup artist Lindsay Kastuk expresses the emotional toll, emphasizing the industry's struggles post-pandemic and how AI could further reduce opportunities.

Kastuk hasn’t yet encountered brands directly using AI to replace her work but anticipates it could happen. She’s cautious about supporting companies that sideline creative teams to save costs. Although she doesn’t own the rights to images she contributes to, there’s worry that AI could learn from her work without consent. If AI diminishes traditional editorial jobs, she plans to shift toward other areas like wedding makeup, which requires a different style.

Differing Perspectives on AI's Impact

Not all creatives share the same level of concern. Chelsea Loren, a freelance brand photographer, believes the human touch will remain valuable. She warns that mass adoption of AI-generated images risks making brand visuals look generic. While AI can cut costs, especially for destination shoots, Loren worries about shrinking budgets for human-led photography.

To protect her work, Loren has updated her contracts to forbid unauthorized AI training or alteration of her images. Professional model Elle Dawson echoes concerns about AI-generated images misrepresenting products, potentially leading to higher return rates and hurting brand profits and sustainability goals. AI models can make garments fit perfectly on all bodies, but real-life fit and texture can vary significantly.

Diversity and Representation Issues

Diversity remains a hot topic in AI-generated fashion content. Levi’s partnered with Lalaland to create digitally generated diverse models, sparking backlash. Sara Ziff criticizes this as an extension of the fashion industry's historic lack of representation, arguing that brands should hire and pay real diverse models instead.

Dawson points out the exploitative nature of modeling and fears AI might worsen manipulation, especially for women. She stresses the importance of models using their voices to challenge harmful industry practices and prevent AI from becoming a tool for exploitation.

Legislative Developments

Compensation for models licensing their digital likenesses is unclear, and many remain skeptical about the value compared to traditional shoots. Dawson says she’d only license her digital double for significant pay and with the ability to direct the use of those funds positively. She refuses to endorse digitally altered versions of herself that promote unrealistic beauty standards.

Dawson’s physical presence, effort, and energy cannot be replicated by AI, and she values that authenticity. Though confident in her established reputation, she acknowledges newer models face greater risks of job loss due to AI.

Efforts to protect models include the New York Fashion Workers Act, which mandates clear written consent for using a model’s digital replica and removes agencies' power of attorney over those likenesses. This law aims to give models more control over AI use involving their image.

Model Alliance advocates for including models and creative workers in AI-related policy discussions. Sara Ziff emphasizes the need for workers to have a say in how AI is adopted to ensure it supports rather than replaces jobs, with meaningful protections in place.